Keio University

Everest

Publish: May 01, 2021

(May 29 = Everest Summit Day)

Mount Everest

Hisashi Tanabe

Former Vice President of the Japanese Alpine Club, Former President of the Daiei Hawks, 1954 Pol, 56 Econ

I grew up in the Tachikawa High School and Keio University Alpine Club. After joining Mitsukoshi, I participated in the Himalayan expeditions commemorating the 100th anniversary of the Japanese Alpine Club and Keio University, and made the first ascent of the previously unclimbed peak Himalchuli (7,864m).

One day, while I was continuing my life as an employee at Mitsukoshi, I received a phone call from Hideki Miyashita, who was one year my senior in the Alpine Club and later served as the president of the Japanese Alpine Club. He said, "Hey! Nabe, come to Everest with me." Mr. Miyashita was to lead a reconnaissance team of the Japanese Alpine Club to challenge the then-unclimbed Southwest Face of Everest with an all-Japan team, and he wanted me to come along.

There were various circumstances, but I decided to take on the challenge, thinking, "Mountain climbing is the only thing I have where I can challenge the best in the world." Unfortunately, however, my body could no longer withstand the altitude of the Himalayas, and at my limit of 6,000m, I descended the mountain leaning on the shoulder of a Sherpa.

Since then, while leading a business life full of ups and downs, the Himalayas have invited me many times, and I have responded by visiting the Himalayas with a sketchbook in hand.

About Altitude Sickness

Tomoko Narabayashi

Director of Narabayashi Internal Medicine and Respiratory Clinic, 1993 Law

At high altitudes, the partial pressure of oxygen in the atmosphere drops due to the decrease in atmospheric pressure; at the summit of Everest, it is one-third of that at sea level. SpO2 (arterial oxygen saturation) falls to the high 60s or 70s. Normally, one would collapse in such a hypoxic state, but reactions to adapt to high altitudes occur through increases in cardiac output, hemoglobin, and respiratory rate. It is necessary to increase altitude gradually. At altitudes as high as Everest, almost everyone develops symptoms of altitude sickness. An altitude of about 8,000m is likely the limit at which humans can breathe.

Therefore, climbing Everest is a challenge to physiological limits and is life-threatening. It is particularly difficult for those in their 50s and older to adapt to high altitudes, and their arterial oxygen saturation becomes lower. Furthermore, when hemoglobin increases to adapt to high altitudes, blood clots form more easily, increasing the risk of cerebral infarction and myocardial infarction. Climbing Everest is extremely high-risk for middle-aged and older people.

Middle-aged and older climbers account for 75% of the total. To prevent altitude sickness, it is necessary to increase altitude gradually, maintain proper hydration, and have the courage to turn back if symptoms are severe.

I Successfully Summited

Yuji Chiba

Teacher at Keio Yochisha Elementary School, Director of NPO Japan Society for Children and Traditional Play

I have successfully summited Everest many times.

You might think this is a lie when you hear these words, but it doesn't mean I actually climbed it. There is a kendama trick called "Everest," and I successfully performed it at the All Japan Kendama Championship, the pinnacle of competitive kendama. As a kendama competition event, it is a trick of the highest difficulty.

This trick is successful if you hold the "ken" (handle) part of the kendama, first land the ball on the rim of the small cup, then move the ball to the middle cup (representing the summit of Everest), and finally land the ball on the rim of the large cup.

There is also a trick called "Uguisu no Tanivatari" (Bush Warbler's Valley Crossing) where the grip is reversed, and it is a required trick for the 5th Dan level of Kendama-do.

Everest is a trick that people long for even in the world of kendama, and the path to the summit opens by concentrating your nerves from the first station. The sense of achievement and fulfillment when the trick is finally completed can be experienced even with kendama.

Recently, I have been practicing so that I can summit Everest with Hiroshi Miyama, an enka singer with whom I achieved a Guinness World Record for kendama on the stage of the NHK Kohaku Uta Gassen.

The Lives of High-Altitude Pastoralists and Yaks

Mari Miyamoto

Associate Professor, Faculty of Business and Commerce, Keio University

The yak is a large bovid that lives in high altitudes above 3,000 meters. Most are raised in the region spanning the Tibetan Plateau to the Himalayan highlands. While the milk of female yaks produces cheese and butter, most male yaks are slaughtered a few years after birth, and their meat becomes an exchange commodity for obtaining rice and barley. Their long, sturdy hair is used for blankets and clothing, and also produces the mobile tents and ropes essential to the lives of pastoralists. White tails are particularly prized and sold at high prices as ritual tools or ornaments. For high-altitude pastoralists, the yak is a treasure that provides everything.

Yaks are also suitable for carrying loads. Ekai Kawaguchi, who traveled alone through Tibet during the Meiji period, survived the harsh winter of Tibet by loading his gear onto yaks and riding on their backs across steep peaks and cold rivers. Pastoralists in the Himalayan region decorate their yaks beautifully at the change of seasons and move by loading their tents, which are their precious homes. Their movement is slow but powerful, and the sight of them advancing leisurely through the morning mist with heavy loads on their backs is even majestic. The sacrifices made by pastoralists to the mountain gods contain prayers for the health and prosperity of the yaks.

*Affiliations and titles are as of the time this magazine was published.

Keio Gijuku Shachu Fellowship

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Keio Gijuku Shachu Fellowship

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